By Jocelyn Tatum
In the 12 years that I have been going to Marfa almost annually, a lot has changed. But the small-town-in-a-vast-desert charm has stayed the same. Here are a few things I always plan to do in my two days and two nights in Marfa.
First, drive. I know it seems like it is far away, and it is, but this road trip goes fast because there is no traffic headed west and away from civilization. Driving is part of the right of passage to get there. I also feel like I shed the societal sludge that builds up on my shoulders as I careen across Interstate 20.
Once you turn off onto HWY 17 in Pecos, the drive starts to transition from sulfur and pumpjacks to pure beauty. It always reminds me of my road trip though the Scottish Highlands. My thoughts change with the landscape.
Again, no traffic and no crowds. A tip: when you do pass a fellow road warrior once you get into the mountains, give them the friendly L-shaped finger wave the locals do there. Even the UPS and Fed-Ex drivers tossed one my way on this last trip. It's like their own secret handshake.
 |
| El Cosmico Teepees |
Grab a bike rack and bring your off-road bikes before you leave town. If you don’t want to mess with that, there are rentals in Marfa at places like The Choss Shop and Cafe. Grab a coffee and a whole wheat, Texas-shaped waffle before you take off. Everything you will do in Marfa is within blocks, and it adds to the experience to be able to ride a bike there from your hotel. Guests have free access to the bikes at El Cosmico. And I should mention that this area is a dream for those who are racing cyclists with the open roads and eternal sky.
Definitely rent a teepee or trailer for at least one night at El Cosmico. It is a novelty for sure and worth the experience! The beds are extremely comfortable and complete with an efficient heated blanket for those cold desert nights. They come with access to outdoor showers. Yes, you will have privacy. When I first tried it in 2014 I hesitated, but it turns out to be one of the highlights of my trip every time. I can’t put my finger on what it is though. Book these at least a month in advance because they book out sometimes months in advance. The safari tents are cool too and only book a week or two out.
 |
| My safari tent at El Cosmico 3.14.20 |
If one night glamping with hipsters and cloth walls is all you feel up to, request a patio suite or the Elizabeth Taylor room at Hotel Paisano (historic, charming) or the Hotel Saint George (new, modish). Some of the AirBNB options are stunning and great for when you go with a group of friends.
Grab a breakfast toast and an espresso drink at Do Your Thing to get your day started. You can ride your bike there from any hotel in town. Jett’s Grill at Hotel Paisano and Marfa Burrito have great breakfast burritos if that’s your craving.
Spend a lazy afternoon perusing Marfa’s beautiful shops and galleries. Get ready to spend a pretty penny though — these places don’t have small-town prices or merch. You can also catch me riding my bike back in the neighborhood behind the courthouse to goggle at the vacation homes of the rich and famous. I love the architectural style there. If only I could attend a home tour, but those don't exist that I know of so instead I bought this book a few years ago at Marfa Book Company.
Or spend an afternoon studying the way artist Donald Judd plays with the natural landscape with his giant outdoor installations. After all, he did put Marfa on the map in the early 1990s with his artwork when he sought respite from New York City.
Have Dinner at Cochineal. The atmosphere inside and out is perfection, and the food is even more perfect. The menu changes weekly so the menu posted on their website may not be up to date but it will be divine no matter what you order. The chef was recently voted one of the best in Texas. This is consistently my favorite restaurant in Marfa for more than 11 years.
Try hors d’oeuvres and drinks at Bar Saint George or Stellina before dinner. Both have phenomenal dinner too if you need something planned on night two.
I missed this intriguing local newsroom and coffee bar last weekend, but plan to make The Sentinel my first stop next visit! After all, I am a coffee fanatic and journalist.
If you still have some energy after dinner, run by Planet Marfa for a drink and some ping pong. The bird watching is great too (winky face).
Starstruck? Run out to the Marfa Lights viewing station or catch a star party at the nearby McDonald Observatory. This is another thing you will want to book in advance.
Homesick? Run over to Alpine and eat at Fort Worth’s original Reata restaurant. The menu is the same but the venue is even more charming.
Big Bend National Park isn’t far if you want to squeeze some hiking or camping into this vacation. My son and I stop at the Monahans Sandhills State Park for some desert sledding on the way to Marfa. It is awesome.
One warning: Marfa operates on its own time. There is some reliable consistency, but I would manage expectations. A hot spot may be closed that weekend because they have family in town. Checking their social media is helpful.
This is just a partial list, my Marfa, if you will. There is more. A lot more. My favorite thing about Marfa is that I get to leave society and venture out into one of the most beautiful high deserts and mountain ranges in the country, while also getting to pop into a five-star restaurant for dinner and get cultured by the sophisticated and nationally recognized art scene. It is a city-girl-who-wishes-she-were-a-wilderness-expert’s dream.
Most importantly, Marfa is the perfect place to practice what the Italians call “dolce far niente.” To slow down and enjoy the sweet moments doing nothing under that endless sky.
Comments
Post a Comment